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Space Saving Techniques

Interplanting—Grow two or more vegetables in one area by planting slow (long season) and fast maturing (short season) crops. The fast maturing vegetables will be harvested before the crops begin to crowd each other. Harvesting the short season crop also provides additional space for the later maturing vegetables. Interplanting can be accomplished by sowing the seeds of a fast and slow growing vegetable together in the same row. For example, radishes (fast maturing) and carrots (slow maturing) can be sown together. Another method is to alternate rows of fast and slow maturing vegetables. An example would be a row of leaf lettuce between two rows of tomatoes.

Succession planting—As soon as one crop is fi nished, plant another. When cool-season crops, such as lettuce, spinach, radishes, and peas are harvested, replant with beans, beets, or turnips.

SOME EARLY PLANS

Consider the size of your family and the amount of produce to be canned, frozen, stored or sold, as well as that used fresh. Don’t underestimate the work involved in organic gardening.
Choosing a Location— Select a plot of good, well-drained soil near a water supply. It should be close to the home for convenience, but should not be shaded by tall buildings or trees. Enclosing the garden spot with a fence is usually profitable.
The Garden Design— Many gardeners find it helpful to draw out on paper the location of each row and the crop or succession of crops to be planted.

PLANTING GUIDE
Vegetables suited to Florida gardens, leading varieties, seed or plants needed, planting distances and depths, best time for planting by areas, hardiness, days to harvest and expected yields are shown in the Florida Vegetable Gardening Guide (SP 103).

Intensive Planting Techniques
Wide Row/Raised Bed Planting
Planting vegetables in bands 1-4 feet wide is an effective way to increase vegetable yields per square foot. Planting bands elevated 6-12 inches above the natural soil level are called raised beds. Raised beds can be open, with sloping sides, or enclosed by walls of treated wood, rock or other masonry.

Vegetables that succeed well in wide rows or raised beds include beets, carrots, chard, leeks, lettuce, onions, parsnips, radishes, spinach, turnips, beans, kale, cabbage, beans, peas, garlic and shallots. The foliage of the maturing plants helps shade the soil, retain moisture and suppress weedsweeds.

Prepare the soil and lay out wide rows in the same way you would single rows, but use two strings instead of one, marking off a broad planting band. Broadcast small seeds, such as lettuce and carrots, over the wide row, tamping them gently into the loose soil. Larger seeds of crops such as beans and peas can be planted in 2 or 3 rows within the wide band spacing the rows the same distance apart as the seeds are planted within the rows. Broadcast plantings will require extensive thinning once seedlings emerge.

BENEFITS OF VIRTUALIZATION IN ON DEMAND
With virtualization, On Demand customers benefit even further through:

• Simplified solutions;
• Reduced down-time;
• A highly available and serviceable architecture.

Simplified Solutions
The current On Demand policy contains deployment scenarios that require additional physical servers, for example the deployment of a DMZ function or an additional instance. With virtualization, the complexity associated with managing additional servers could be reduced in some cases and in others, may be eliminated altogether. For example:

• A non-production DMZ server could be deployed as a virtual machine and still provide the testing function it serves
• An additional instance could be deployed as a virtual machine in the existing non-production infrastructure

Making sense of image sensors

The diagram on the right is about 2x actual size. The big full-frame sensor is the size of the old 35mm film negative . In serious photo circles, 35mm film is still the standard other sensorsizes are compared to, in part because many 35mm lenses work on ‘full-frame’ DSLRs. Smaller DSLR sensors have a cropping effect on photos, due to their reduced field of vision with 35mm lenses.

For consumer DSLRs, most makers use the APS-C sensor with a crop factor of 1.5 (Nikon) or 1.6 (Canon). Canon’s older, up-market 1D models have a crop factor of 1.3 (not shown on the diagram). Canon’s 1Ds and 5D models use a full-frame sensor. Olympus, Panasonic and Leica use the ‘Four Thirds’ format, which employs a sensor half the size of the full frame type (the green outline) that yields a crop factor of 2.

Clearance Check: We are now ready to check and adjust the valves but first we must set the front cylinder piston to top dead center. Using the 17mm socket with an extension insert it in the forward inspection hole to engage the nut shown in figure VA10. Ensure the engine is in neutral and turn the nut COUNTER CLOCKWISE ONLY until the pointer is aligned with the F mark in the rear inspection hole as shown in figure VA10. If you go past the mark DO NOT BACKUP by turning the bolt clockwise. Continue around for another revolution until you have the pointer and the mark perfectly aligned. Now verify that you are at Top Dead Center by ensuring that the line scribed in the cam chain sprocket lies parallel with the cylinder head as shown in figure VA11. If not, keep turning as you are 180 degrees out. Using your metric feeler gauges determine the clearance as shown in figure VA09 for all four valves and record them. The Intake Valve clearance low limit is 0.10MM and the high limit is 0.15mm. The exhaust low limit is 0.25MM and high limit is 0.30mm. If this is the first time checking clearances I recommend removing all the shims, one at a time, using the magnet. Record their thickness and position using your digital metric caliper. To remove a shim, simply slide the rocker arms aside on their shaft and lift the shim out of the valve using your magnet. To insert a shim, simply place it on the magnet, slide the rocker arm out of the way, position the shim back in it’s bucket and release the rocker, it will slide the magnet out of the way and leave the shim trapped between the valve and rocker arm. I use an Excel spreadsheet that I print out before starting an adjustment to record the new clearances on. This lets me know exactly what shim I will need in each position and a good idea of when I will need it so I can have it on hand. Now turn the engine over COUNTER CLOCKWISE ONLY until the rear cylinder mark is aligned with the pointer and verify with the scribe line on the cam chain sprocket (from the right side of the bike). Use the feeler gauges to determine each valves clearance and record. If all valves are within spec, congratulations, proceed to assembly section. Now you must determine what shim you will need to bring a valve back within spec. Say for example; you have an intake valve that you could not get the 0.10mm feeler gauge in but a 0.05mm would slide in fine and the shim currently in that position is 2.65mm thick. You will need a 2.60mm shim to bring it back into spec. By analyzing your record you should find that in some cases you can swap shims between valves to bring them back into spec. In boarder line cases, it is better to be a little over then under specification as once the clearance reaches zero or below, the valve will not be closing fully. The cylinder will start to loose compression and the seat of the valve will start to burn away. Note that due to expansion, clearances WILL get tighter when the engine is at normal operation temperature. Be sure to recheck a valves clearance after changing it’s shim and remember its cylinders piston MUST BE at top dead center when the clearance is checked.